Fathers are a tricky bunch. Big department stores do a great job of perpetuating the myth that your Dad just wants some new socks. Lucky for you, Sparesbox is here to make sure you don’t fall into that trap. Check out our Top 10 Gifts for Father’s Day and get him what he really wants!

 

Yes Dad, that's your hand...
Yes Dad, that’s your hand…
  1. Hella I-View Inspection Light

This is a head torch inspection light that works like magic. The genius engineers at German powerhouse Hella have come up with a comfortable wearable head torch that can switch on and off with a simple wave of your hand in front of the light. The I-View Inspection Light also has a high/low power setting, rechargeable battery, and is IP65 water and impact resistant. I got one for my Dad, and he hasn’t stopped using it for just about anything including taking out the rubbish at night – you’re welcome Dad!

 

 

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  1. Kincrome Lok-On Ratchet and Socket Sets

Whilst we are on the topic of witchcraft, the boffins at Kincrome have come up with a socket technology called Lok-On which – somehow – can remove fasteners that are up to 85% rounded! The unique feature of this patented technology is an extra cam in the 6-point socket design. I’ve seen it in action and let me tell you – those rounded bolts or nuts that would have steam coming out of Dad’s ears – they aren’t a problem once you have a Kincrome Lok-On Socket Set.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. Autoglym Surface Detailing Clay Bar Kit

Let’s face it – most people don’t enjoy washing their car. Except Dad! Dads usually take any and every opportunity to look after the bodywork on their pride and joy, so why not help him out with this great Clay Bar Kit from purveyors of British detailing perfection Autoglym. The Autoglym Surface Detailing Clay Bar Kit is made in the UK and comes with everything you need for clay barring a car. In case you are wondering, clay barring is a critical step that usually needs to be taken before waxing or polishing, as there are nearly always bonded contaminants that are stuck to the paint – think pollutants, sap, tar, and so on. These bonded contaminants will never be removed with regular washing and can actually cause long-term damage to the paint if not removed. The Autoglym Clay Bar with included Autoglym Rapid Detailer will make light work of these nasty bonded contaminants. I’ve actually caught my Dad talking to himself about how good this kit is, so it is literally Dad approved.

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4. Autoglym High Definition Cleanser Kit

Following on from our awesome suggestion above, Autoglym also make a terrific High Definition Cleanser Kit which contains everything you need to better prep the surface for waxing or polishing. It’s easy to use as a secondary step after clay barring, and includes one bottle of Autoglym High Definition Cleanser, two Autoglym High Definition Applicator Pads, and one Autoglym Hi-Tech Finishing Cloth. Using the High Definition Cleanser means you will have a surface free of old wax or polish build up – so a fresh coat of wax can be evenly applied.

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5. Blackvue Dash Cams

Does your Dad engage in regular Dad behaviours of shaking fists at incompetent drivers, swearing at pedestrians, and cursing P-platers (after all, they just DON’T teach people how to drive anymore)? Of course he does! Check out the range of Blackvue Dash Cams so he can re-watch all the times someone else has done something wrong in traffic. Seriously though, dash cams are an awesome way to ensure that your journeys are effortlessly recorded, giving you peace of mind that if the worst should happen, the evidence is there in crystal clear HD quality – night or day!

 

 

6. TRED Recovery Ramps

This one is for the fathers that like going off road in a 4×4. TRED stands for Total Recovery and Extraction Device, and as the name suggests, these recovery tracks are vital equipment for any keen off roader. Made in Australia from practically bulletproof polyolefin plastic and available in a variety of colours, this is a gift that Dad will be sure to love. Don’t forget to check out the range of TRED accessories including mounting kits, bags, and leashes.

 

7. Hella 350mm LED Light Bar

Also for the off roaders, this beaut Hella 350mm LED Light Bar is perfect for attachment to the bull bar, front bumper, or roll bar of the serious 4×4. The powerful LED lights provide up to 96,000 candela of lighting power and are a great safety option to have when driving off the beaten track at night. The Hella 350mm LED Light Bar comes as a pre-wired kit for easy installation – the sort of high quality feature you can expect from a company like Hella who have been in the lighting game for longer than your Dad has been around.

 

8. Meguiar’s Quik Interior Detailer Wipes

You’ve still got the painful memories…chowing down an ice cream on the annual family road trip when all of a sudden you make a mess on the seat or trim. Dad yells at you and it all ends in tears. Luckily the folks at Meguiar’s have come up with these handy disposable wipes which can be kept in the glovebox or boot for use in case of emergencies. They’re safe for use on fabric, leather, and most interior trims – why not get some for your car too?

 

9. Jetpower Pressure Washers

You know what Dad doesn’t like? Wasting water, because water equals money. Save water, time, and money with our great range of Jetpower Pressure Washers. They’re perfect for cleaning the car, tiles, or garage, and any other crazy use your Dad can come up with. Available in a range of flow rates with a bunch of handy accessories, a Jetpower Pressure Washer is a gift he is guaranteed to use time and time again.

 

10. Meguiar’s Ultimate Wash & Wax 1.42L

Still can’t decide what to get Dad? On a serious budget? You literally can’t go wrong with the best car wash from Meguiar’s – their Ultimate Wash & Wax 1.42L. The highly sudsing advanced formula carefully cleans away serious dirt and grime, leaving a genuine wax finish. The 1.42L size will last for ages, probably until next Father’s Day. Did I mention it smells awesome?

 

 

We hope we’ve given you some inspiration and that your dad gets the gift he deserves this Father’s Day. If you’re still stuck, feel free to send us an email or give us a call – with over 100,000 parts available, we definitely have something he wants!

 

Also don’t forget to check out the Dad Day Movie Tickets Promotion we’re running, free movie tickets with every purchase until Father’s Day- sweet!

So you decided to buy a K&N Air Filter, gold star for you. They’re great for your fuel economy, your air flow and most importantly, they’re washable and reusable! We previously talked about why they’re such nifty filters. Now, how to clean the thing!

 

Your filter might look a little dirty but doesn’t really need to be cleaned yet. So how often should you clean your K&N Filter and how often should you oil your K&N Filter? Your K&N Air Filter should go for 80467.2 kilometres (that’s 50,000 miles) before it really needs a clean.  Here’s some pics from K&N’s website on when to clean and when not to clean:

 

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If your filter looks like the one on the right, we recommend getting your hands on a K&N Filter Recharge Clean and Oil Kit 99-5050. This K&N air filter cleaning kit will give you 355 ml of K&N Power Kleen Air Filter Cleaner and 237 ml in the Squeeze Oil Bottle to get you on your merry way. K&N’s kit will help you achieve the best results as it’s made with K&N filters specifically in mind.

 

You might be thinking, “Can’t I clean K&N Air Filters without a kit?” Yes, by all means, if you’d rather not spend $19.95 and trust some dodgy online forum and hope that username: BigDady69 knows what they’re talking about, then by all means, stop reading here and run along.

 

 

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source: answers.yahoo.com

 

We hope you haven’t run along because we want to give you four easy peasy steps to clean that dirty filter! We also have some great pics we borrowed from K&N to help make these steps even easier to follow because we’re all about sweet and simple. We also suggest picking a nice sunny day, so you can roll up the garage door and enjoy  a cold beverage while you do this. Will make it all the more enjoyable.

 

Alright, alright, enough chit-chat already , let’s go:

 

Phase 1. Apply the K&N Air Filter Cleaner

Spray that K&N Kleen Air Filter Cleaner onto both sides of the filter, and don’t be scabby, get liberal about it. Let it soak for max 10 minutes (that’s more than enough time to get that drink out of the fridge and start sipping) to loosen the dirt BUT DO NOT allow the cleaner to dry on the filter.

 

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Phase 2. Rinse the K&N Air Filter

Use cool low-pressure water to rinse out the dirt and rinse off all traces of that Kleen Cleaner. However, if your filter was looking more like a shag pile carpet that hasn’t been cleaned since the 70’s then you might need to repeat these first two steps.

 

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Phase 3. Dry the K&N Air Filter

After rinsing, gently shake off the excess water. No shaking it like you’re in the Outkast film clip for “Hey Ya.” Only gently shake it. Then you need to let it dry naturally (perfect time to make some headway through that drink).

 

Phase 4. Apply K&N Filter Oil

It’s important NOT to apply the K&N Filter Oil until after the filter has dried. Once it has squeeze the oil along the crown of every pleat. Leave the oil to wick (aka absorb) for roughly 20 minutes then go back and touch up any sections that haven’t turned up a uniform red colour. Repeat until it all looks the same colour.

 

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MISSION COMPLETE!

First things first, don’t know what shock absorbers do? Head here. Bam! Problem Solved! Next! Okay, now you want to know a little more because a little more knowledge never hurt nobody!

 

So, you want to replace your worn out shock absorbers or maybe you want to upgrade them to a brand new level of awesomeness but in a world of endless shock absorber possibilities you’re having a little trouble choosing. Let us try and shed some light on a frequently asked question.

 

‘What’s the difference between Monroe and KYB shock absorbers?’

 

Well, both are top tier brands that provide a variety of high-quality replacement shock absorbers. SO what the hell’s the difference? Here’s a little look at each brand.

 

Monroe Shock Absorbers

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An American company celebrating 100 years this year, Monroe created one of the first complete, ready-to-install strut assemblies. Looking at $66.95 upwards per shock, Monroe Shock Absorbers are designed to meet or exceed original equipment specifications. Monroe has branded themselves as delivering, “both a soft, comfortable ride and firm vehicle handling.”

 

They use technologies that are designed to match or exceed OE (original equipment) specifications; making these shocks best suited to restore your OE ride control.

 

If you’re looking for a quality replacement that’s not too fancy and you like their vision of, “Pioneering global ideas for cleaner, quieter and safer transportation,” then get on the Monroe bandwagon.

 

 

KYB Shock Absorber

KYB originally hails from the land of delicious sushi, Tokyo, Japan.

 

A Japanese heavyweight in aftermarket and OE suspension solutions, their reputation for quality shock absorbers is well known in the industry.

 

bullet train
http://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/traveling-beyond-200-mph-on-worlds-fastest-trains

Cool fact; KYB are the chosen suspension supplier for Japan’s Shinkansen Bullet Trains that travel up to 300 kilometres per hour and transport millions of passengers daily!

 

Proud recipients of the Deming Prize, the world’s oldest and most prestigious global award for total quality control, you can be sure they must be pretty damn good.

 

Sitting at $89.95 per shock absorbers upwards, KYB have a massive range of shock absorbers to suit a variety of needs.

 

For those who follow normal driving standards Excel Shock Absorbers are designed to restore your vehicles al natural OE performance. GAS-A-STRUTS deliver a firmer ride with more control for all you drivers out there that like to take it to the limit.

 

Got a heavy load to carry? Then let KYB take some of the weight. For 4X4 applications, KYB have also made a range of premium shock absorbers made to deliver outstanding resistance to high temperatures and pressures that come as a result of all that heavy-duty driving, load carrying and off roading. That range comes under the fitting name of Skorched.

 

So if you like Japanese attention to detail, then get your KYB strut on!

 

Want some more opinions of KYB and Monroe Shock Absorbers, jump onto our website and hit up our parts specialists on chat.

As the games in Rio continue on, it’s game on for two ranges within Bilstein’s Shock Absorbers. Welcome to the arena Bilstein B6 Sports Shocks and Bilstein B6 Heavy Duty Shocks. Hey, guess what? The power lays in your hands, you get to decide who wins! It all depends on what you’re after when it comes to deciding between Sports Shocks and Heavy Duty Shocks.

 

But let’s back track a bit, it’s always good to have a bit of back story.

 

Bilstein have led the way in shock absorber and suspension technology for over 50 years and provide millions of shock absorbers every year for every kind of driver across the globe. They are adjustable which is probably their single biggest selling point.

 

Choosing who’s going to win is particularly important, given you are putting in that extra investment for the best performance. Bilstein Shocks may be a little on the pricey side but it’s worth it for world-renowned performance that comes in miles ahead.

 

Alrighty, so both of these bad boys (both the sports and heavy duty ranges) are premium manufactured and tested in Germany in some of the world’s best high-performance vehicles. “What does that mean?” I hear you asking: It means you get the effects of increased performance and stability wherever or whatever you may be driving.

 

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Competitor Number One : Bilstein B6 Sport Shocks

  • The perfect entry into the world of high-performance shock absorbers. Suitable for track day use and aggressive street driving. Vroom, vroom!
  • Monotube design which enhances performance and safety on both the track and the road.
  • Maintains standard spring height and can be used with your vehicle’s OE (original equipment) springs while still improving performance.
  • Tested for use in both extreme track conditions and day-to-day driving.

 

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Competitor Number Two : Bilstein B6 Heavy Duty Shocks

  • Ideal choice for most vehicles, including sedans, SUVs and trucks
  • Again, monotube design which enhances performance and safety without sacrificing ride comfort.
  • Offer super damping ability, making them ideal for drivers who demand superior performance, while still maintaining that exceptional street ride experience.

 

Who’s your winner? Do you need something for aggressive street driving or are you more of a heavy duty kinda individual? I guess we’ll never know, unless of course you get on the site and buy some 😛

So your car’s no longer got that brand new car appeal. Instead of getting looks of admiration, it’s getting looks of pity. Fear no more, let us give you 10 ways that won’t break the bank and give your car the moderate makeover it deserves.

 

1. Get Cleaning (part one)

Yep, it’s super obvious that a good clean up will do wonders but we’re not just talking about removing those hidden empty chip packets stashed away in your car seat pockets. We’re talking about getting super stuck in: the in-laws are coming over for Christmas type clean.

Start with vacuuming everything, and we mean everything. Under the seats, on top of the seats, in between the seats!  Get that vacuum in the boot, under the floor mats, in the doors, the dash, get it yet?

Your hair is not the only thing that benefits from a regular shampoo, give those spots and dots a scrub! Get in there and eliminate them with some Autoglym Interior Shampoo. It’s affordable, it’s a premium brand and it’s great at quickly removing any built up dirt and grime from mats, headlining, dashboard, doors, switches, pedals and more. Success? Not yet, but you’re well on your way.

 

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2.Cover Up

Hopefully, your dashboard and steering wheel don’t look anything like this, otherwise, I’m not sure how many of these tips will help you (sorry).

If your seats and steering wheel are looking a bit worse for wear, and no matter how much interior shampoo you use, that 5-year-old coffee stain is not going to come out, banging on a new wheel cover, dash cover and some seat covers could do the trick.

Yes, I know some seat covers are scary and should never see the light of day, that combination of cartoon characters and just plain ugly is definitely not something I would recommend….unless of course, you’re into that. A nice sleek cover in an inoffensive colour can be the facelift your car’s interior needs, it covers up the old and manages the inevitable eating on-the-go moments.

 

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3. Deodorise

No one likes a stinky car. Be it food scrap stink, you left the window slightly open and it rained stink or smelly pet stink. It’s going to kill anyone’s vibe regardless of how fresh your car looks. You can easily get hands on car odour eliminator to get rid of stubborn odours lingering on in your interior fabric and throw in an unobtrusive smelling air freshener for good measure.

 

4. Air Filters and Air Conditioning

Following on from the previous note, if you’ve got any funny smells coming through your air conditioning when you turn it on it might also be a good idea to check the condition of your Cabin Air Filter (if your car has one; check the owners manual). Cabin Air Filters, play an important role in filtering out all that pollution and crap that floats about. Dirty Cabin Air Filters can collect all sorts of gross pollutants which can cause the smell. A quick change to a new one is not only good for your health but will hopefully also get rid of any stink being caused by a dirty one.

 

5. Audio

Nothing says dated like an outdated audio system but if you’re still digging CD’s and cassette tapes then read no more. If you’re sick of listening to talk-back radio shows and want to plug your iPad or iPhone in then tune in.

Now this might break the “don’t break the bank rule” depending on how much you want to pimp your sound system.  You can go all out and replace the whole sound system and speakers or you can go for something a less. New radio head units that have Bluetooth, integrated with your iPod and iPhone should come relatively cheap if you do your research and shop around.

 

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6. Flush out those Fluids!

Would you like to be chugging down on contaminated, old fluids? Thought not, well, neither does your car. Did you know Power Steering Fluid and Brake Fluid can become contaminated with age?  It’s a good idea to do regular oil changes to keep your car running smoothly and to help prolong its life. Flushing and resetting your Motor Oil, Transmission Oil, Antifreeze and Differential Fluid is also a good idea.

 

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7. Get Cleaning (part two)

We started with the interior, now it’s the exterior. Even if you are short on time or too lazy (or don’t have any young relatives to bribe) to do anything else we suggest giving the body of your car a serious clean is the quickest fix for making your car feel new. Kinda like shoving all that mess into a drawer instead of putting it away. Okay, so there are like fifty million bodywork cleaning products out there so let’s make it easy and suggest some Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo and Conditioner. It’s super affordable and a great product.

 

8. Windows and Wipers

We’re focusing on the insides of your windows this time. If you have kids or any form of grubby passengers, there’s likely to be grime or marks ruining your perfect view. Giving it a polish with  Autoglym Glass Polish will get rid of the muck and give you that lasting shine they talk about in dishwasher ads.  You can also use in on your wipers to give them a clean, which takes us onto the next thing, Wiper Blades! Don’t neglect your wipers. Having rusty, old wipers will make your car look older and affect their effectiveness. Give yourself clarity of vision and keep in mind you should probably change them every 6 – 12 months.

 

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9. Tired Tyres

Clean those rims! Having dirty rims is massively going to affect the feel of your car. You don’t have to change your rims to some pimped out insanity to get your car feeling upgraded and new. This is kinda a part 3 to the cleaning process, so get down there with some Autoglym Custom Wheel Cleaner. Completely acid-free, designed to clean a wide variety of wheel types; the perfect treatment to get them gleaming.

 

10. “Wax on, Wax off”

Not only is it an awesome quote from an awesome movie but it’s also an awesome way to give the body of your car that new car shine. Post-80’s cars were given an extra layer of clear coat for protection against environmental abuse and added shine, but over time even that will start to fade and lose its shine. Giving it the Autoglym Wax Kit experience is something your car will never forget. Yes, this option is a little fancy but your car deserves a little love. If you’re not into fancy but still want that extra shine, check out all our other options. Four coats a year is all you need for that perfect shine and durable protection.

 

 

 

 

 

Trying to figure out what filter you’re going to use on your latest Instagram photo can be challenging enough let alone figuring out which brand of filter is going to be the best option for you and your car.

 

SO let’s give you the low down on the pros and cons of K&N filters to keep you in the know when it comes to replacing your filters.

 

Pros

Washable and Reusable

Without a doubt, one of the biggest attractions to using a K&N filter is that they’re washable. K&N invented the reusable high flow cotton air filter back in 1969 and have continued to work tirelessly on developing the technology that sets them apart from other brands. Lasting 50,000 miles (that’s 80467.2 km!) between servicing; giving your filter a wash and oiling will prepare it for another 50,000 miles. (Also, a massive plus if you’re conscious about how much crap you’re putting in landfills!)

 

Lasting Power

Some things are good when they’re “short n’ sweet” like speeches and ad segments during your favourite T.V. show. Other things, like how long parts last in your car, are not. K&N’s air filters are developed to last the distance. Their million-mile warranty is a surefire sign that they stand behind their products, allowing completely stress-free driving for anyone who invests in the K&N philosophy; that filters should last the life of a vehicle. Now that’s some lasting power!

 

Air Flow

As you’d imagine, the better the air filter the greater the air flow. Since K&N offer quality, you can expect insane flow. Increased flow allows the engine to perform the way it’s meant to. With enough air, an engine can display its true potential. This is something that a paper filter won’t provide an engine with. In short, K&N filters can help prolong the life of an engine by feeding it the air it needs.

 

 

 

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source: blog.cochran.com

 

Fuel Economy

When I hear the word economy, I usually switch off and wait for the drone of  “in the red” to end, but this is economy to get excited about! The result of improved air flow is increased fuel economy. With more air and ideal engine output, it won’t surprise you that your engine is going to deal with fuel that little bit better. For those of us keeping an eye on our spending, enriched efficiency in burning fuel is the holy grail. A K&N air filter can provide those extra couples of miles per gallon. Ideal.

 

Power Hungry

K&N air filters will boost your car’s overall horsepower by 1-4% in total. It might not sound like much, but how else can you boost your power without forking out a small fortune?

 

 

Ease of Fitment

The great thing about a lifelong aftermarket filter is it’s pretty damn easy to put in place. K&N make their air filters ready-to-use and are made in a way that means they fit inch-perfect in the place of the original air filter. You can check out the installation instruction here on K&N’s website.

 

A Wallet’s Best Friend (In The Long Run)

Although K&N filters are more expensive than sticking with paper filters short term, the reality is, you’re saving money in the long run. A paper filter might seem more cost-effective, but with a paper filter, it’s never just the one. Expect to buy a series of paper replacements, and expect to see the overall cost pile up. Buying K&N means your wallet will thank you in the end, oh yeah and who doesn’t like a little extra spending money?

 

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Cons

Cost (Short-Term)

Okay, per item a K&N air filter is pricier than its paper competitor. Looking at the price point of a K&N filter can be daunting when you see other air filters four times cheaper. So on that basis, those who doubt the values of a K&N filter have a point. If your current car is on its last legs (or wheels, rather), then a one-off paper filter would be more cost-effective however if your car isn’t heading to the scrap yard then a K&N filter is a worthwhile cost-saving option long term.

 

Cleaning

The main downside? Cleaning a K&N air filter is a pain in the backside. A great selling point for K&N is that their filters’ are washable, but who wants to do that? Washing, drying, re-fitting. Boring, right? Agreed. However, we have a pretty stress-free 3 step guide to keep your boring time to a minimum! Either that or get a younger relative to do it for you for ice cream…just kidding…kinda.

 

Made up your mind about K&N filter? Head over to our website to pick one up for *10% Off. Click here!

 

*Offer ends 31/07/2016

Squealing or squeaking brakes are a common occurrence when you’re at the track, but when you’re sitting in peak hour traffic on your way to work or in the city for a night out, the high pitched squeal can not only be annoying but even a little embarrassing!

 

 

Common Causes of Squealing Brakes

1. Worn Brake Pads

Squealing brakes can occur for a variety of reasons, with the first and foremost being worn out brake pads. Most brake pads have a small metal finger on the side of them which protrudes about 2mm past the backing plate. Once your brake pads have worn out, the metal finger begins to contact the brake disc. This results in that high pitched squeak we’ve all heard at one time or another. The manufacturer does this so that you’re prompted to have your brakes looked at and changed.

 

how to tell when brake discs are worn

 

 

2. Glazed Brake Pads

The other very common cause of squeaking brakes is the pads becoming ‘glazed’. All brake pads are constructed with an optimum operating temperature range. A good road pad that would be well suited to commuting to and from work or in start-stop traffic would have a low operating temperature (approx. 0-300 degrees Celsius). Performance orientated pads operate around the 400-800 degrees Celsius range, while dedicated race pads operate from 1000 degrees Celsius and up.

 

When a brake pad is forced to work beyond its ideal temperature range, this can lead to glazing. The brake pads material begins to break down and crystallise or harden. This results in a surface of very similar hardness and very low friction coefficient contacting each other, producing that same squealing noise. Performance brake pads are typically made of a different compound with a higher friction coefficient. This is why they are prone to squealing at low temperatures and are known for being harsh on brake discs.

 

Hot performance brakes

 

During this glazing process, the brake pads friction material can break down causing the friction material to adhere to the discs surface. This results in a pulsating brake pedal when slowing from speed as the discs typically flat surface now has high and low spots. Contrary to popular belief this is a common cause of brake run out, and as long as your discs are not below their specified minimum thickness they can be machined or cleaned to rectify this.

 

Glazed brake discs

 

 

3. Stones/Contaminants

A less common cause of brake squeal (although not uncommon) is when small stones/contaminants become stuck between the brake pad and disc. It’s easily fixed by quickly removing the pads and making sure they are free of grit. However, if you leave it unattended, this can result in the stone/contaminant cutting a groove into your disc as it pushes into the disc itself.

 

So there you have it. An in-depth look into the reasons why your brakes may be squeaking. Think it might be time for a tune-up? Head on over to Spares Box and check out our range of brakes and our Mid-Year Mega Sale! Saving up to 20% off!

 

 

There are more sensors in your vehicle than you could possibly know. Each of these intelligent designs perform small functions that often go unnoticed, but without their presence owning a car would be a lot more hassle. Ensuring efficiency, safety and longevity of your vehicle, sensors are located in a variety of places. Here, we at Spares Box will show you just what you’ve been sleeping on, and exactly where these often overlooked parts spend their time.

 

 

Air Flow Sensor vs. Air Flow Meter

The soul purpose of an Air Flow Sensors is to monitor the volume of air entering your engine, while the Air Flow Meter is a slightly older design that performs the same task via a much simpler mechanism. It’s not uncommon for modern Air Flow Sensors to have the air temperature sensors incorporated into them as well as both are located in the engines air intake piping.

 

 

MAP Sensor

A MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor serves a similar purpose to the Air Flow Sensor. It gives the vehicles Engine Control Unit (ECU) an indicator of the air mass/density contained in the manifold that is about to enter the engine by comparing the pressure differences from within the manifold to the atmosphere outside. These are typically found on the engines intake manifold, after the throttle body.

 

 

Cam & Crank Angle Sensors

Cam and Crank Angle Sensors serve the same purpose as each other, the only difference is their location on the motor. An engine rotates through 720 degrees to complete one cycle. The computer needs to know where in the cycle the engine is so it can deliver fuel and produce sparks at the correct time. These sensors are located next to major rotating components and dictate the engines position in its cycle to the computer.

The Cam Angle Sensor reads off the vehicles Camshaft. These are typically (but not always) located high up on the motor. The Crank Angle Sensor is located lower down on the motor near the vehicles crankshaft. It is common for a car to either have none, one or both of these sensors.

 

 

Knock Sensor

When the air and fuel mixture within the engine is pre ignited (which can have various causes) it is referred to as pinging or knocking in reference to the sound it makes. It also causes a small shockwave to pass through the engine’s block. The Knock Sensor is typically bolted to the side of the engine and picks up these shockwaves. These shockwaves are read by the computer as small electrical signals. On V configuration engines like the LS series V8’s the Knock Sensor is typically located in the “Valley”.

Knocking is one of the quickest ways to ruin an engine so it is crucial the computer knows if this is occurring so it can adjust its ignition timing and air/fuel mixtures to combat it.

 

 

Throttle Position Sensor

As you push the accelerator pedal of your car, it opens and closes a valve in the engines airway referred to as the Throttle Body or Butterfly, controlling the airflow. This is how you determine how much work your engine is doing. Your vehicle’s computer needs to determine how much you are trying to accelerate so it can adjust the air/fuel mixture and ignition timing. The Throttle Position Sensor is located on the outside of the Throttle Body.

 

 

Oxygen Sensor / Lambda Sensor / AFR Sensor

Oxygen Sensors go by a few names such as the Lambda or AFR Sensor. These sensors are screwed into various locations in the exhaust system, typically close to the engine. A car may have from 1 to 4 Oxygen Sensors depending on its year of manufacture, engine and the computer used in the vehicle. They measure the oxygen content in the burnt exhaust gases as they leave the engine and aid the computer in calculating whether it needs to add or remove more fuel.

In later vehicles with Catalytic Converters (Cats), it’s common to have a sensor before and after the Cat. by comparing the results shown be each sensor the computer can determine if the Cat is doing it’s job of converting the harmful carbon monoxide into carbon dioxide efficiently.

 

 

Oil Pressure Switch / Sender

An engine relies on lubrication to operate smoothly and efficiently. The engines has an oil pump that rotates when the engine is running and pumps engine oil to the required areas, producing pressures of over 80-90psi in some cases. Without an oil pump, your engines lifespan would be reduced to a matter of minutes. For this reason almost every car is fitted with either an Oil Pressure Gauge, light, or sometimes both. The Oil Pressure Sender will provide a varying electrical signal to operate the Gauge, whereas the Oil Pressure Switch will simply turn the dash light on when oil pressure drops below a set minimum.

The Oil Pressure Switch/Sender can be found almost anywhere on the engine and vary greatly in appearance. The most common location however will be in close proximity to the Oil Filter.

 

 

Oil Level Sensor

Oil Level Sensors (also known as a Sender) are a little less common. Typically located on either the Sump (at the very bottom of the engine) or low down on the block, the Oil Level Sensor usually has internal floats that sit in the oil within the Sump. If the float drops to a certain level it will cause the low oil light on the dashboard to illuminate.

 

 

Temperature Sender / Switch

Much like an Oil Pressure Switch or Sender, a Temperature Sender will typically operate the temperature light on your dashboard (and provide the same information to the ECU in some cases). The Temperature Switch will operate the temperature warning light and in some cars there will be a “Fan Switch”. This is just a temperature switch that turns the cooling fans on and off at pre determined temperatures. Located in many various places, some more common locations are near the vehicles thermostat, or on the radiator tanks.

 

 

Wheel Speed Sensor

Wheel Speed Sensors are (unsurprisingly) located behind the wheels of your vehicle. Your car may have 1 to 4 of these sensors.

The Wheel Speed Sensors have various functions. They calculate how quickly a wheel is rotating in order to drive electronic speedometers. They are also used in conjunction with Traction Control Systems, Active Yaw control Systems and ABS systems to determine wheels spinning at differing speeds therefore identifying wheel spin, partial loss of traction and locked brakes.

 

 

Air Temperature Sensor

Air Temperature Sensors are found in the air intake piping of many fuel injected vehicles. They consist of a very simple probe that sit in the direct path of the air entering the engine. It relays the air’s temperature back to the computer and allows the computer make minute adjustments to the air/fuel mixture and ignition timing.

Air filters are constantly pulling in air. Whenever your engine is running, your filter is at work – a pretty thankless task really. As one of the most undervalued components that make up your car, it is important that you keep an eye on the condition of your air filter. With K&N cotton air filters, you are dealing with a high performance product that never compromises on effort nor result, which means it’s vital that you give your filter optimum conditions to do what it does best – improve performance.

 

 

Which products should I use to clean my K&N Air Filter?

When you’re cleaning out your car’s air filters, you want to achieve the best results. K&N cleaning products are made specifically with K&N filters in mind, and that’s why it’s important that you use the brand’s cleaning products on their branded filters. Our fuss-free K&N cleaning kit will save you a few dollars, and give you the genuine article while you’re at it. With K&N-specific cleaner and oil, you can expect improved performance from the off.

 

K&N Air Filter Clean and Oil Kit 99-5050

 

 

How to clean your K&N Air Filter

Step 1:

Using the K&N Power Kleen cleaner included in the kit, the first step in enhancing performance is to spray your air filter cleaner onto your K&N filter, using enough to cover both sides. Allow it to soak for a maximum of 10 minutes – just long enough to let the cleaner loosen any dirt that has accumulated. We recommend the K&N Power Kleen Air Filter Cleaner, included in our kit, which is tailor made to produce maximum results from K&N filters.

 

Step 2:

Now that that’s out the way, give the filter a rinse and let it dry. First, use cool water to spray the remainder of your filter cleaner from the filter itself. After, shake off any water you can and then let the filter dry by itself. Don’t be tempted to use to towels or sponges, and don’t apply any oil when wet.

 

Step 3:

The third step involves application of the filter oil. Squeeze your filter oil along the crown of every individual pleat. Use K&N Filter Oil, included in our kit, as it quickly penetrates the filter pleats, where it remains suspended in the cotton fabric until cleaned next time. Leave the oil to wick for roughly 20 minutes, allowing the pleats to darken to the colour of the oil, then re-coat any pleats that look a little light. Continue this until your filter’s pleats have a uniform colour.

 

Cleaning your air filter is simple, there aren’t any great surprises thrown your way, but it is a precaution that is essential to take. Now, your filter is more than ready to perform at its optimum, allowing for the best ride every time you step into your vehicle.

Many spark plug suppliers will tell you that one spark plug will fit a number of vehicles. What they don’t tell you is that this “one size fits all” approach compromises the performance of the vehicle. This old-school type of thinking disregards advancements in modern engine evolution and can compromise precision engine output, reliability, and fuel efficiency.

 

But Why?

 

Engine manufacturers spend many years researching and developing a new engine blueprint. During this complex process, every engine component, including the spark plug, is engineered and tailored to perfectly match the make and model to ensure optimum performance and durability.

 

When Spark Plugs are commonised, important attributes are ignored that can have a big effect on performance and longevity. Some key side effects include:

 

Heat Range

Spark Plug Heat Range

 

  • Too cold – Spark Plug is prone to carbon fouling
  • Too hot – Spark Plug is prone to detonation/pinging – that can escalate to overheating damage of the engine

 

Centre Electrode Projection

Spark Plug Center Electrode Projection

  • Too long – High risk of mechanical interference with pistons or valves
  • Too short – Reduces ignitability, performance and fuel efficiency

 

Number of ground electrodes

NGK Spark Plugs

  • Replacing the multi-ground OE spark plug design with a single ground electrode Spark Plug, can cause unstable idle for wasted spark ignition systems

 

Ground electrode design
  • Adverse effect to ignitability, performance and fuel efficiency

 

Double Fine Electrode (DFE) design
  • By replacing a non-DFE OE spark plug design with a DFE Spark Plug, can create issues stemming from excessive ground electrode projection and inefficient heat dissipation.

 

NGK Spark Plug Australia are engine ignition specialists, partnering with OE engine manufacturers to ensure all NGK Spark Plugs meet exacting engine specific requirements. As a result, every vehicle is perfectly matched to its make and model for optimum performance.

 

Choose the spark plug that has been engineered for your engine, choose NGK!

Brembo brakes are world-renowned. With roots in the Italian city of Bergamo, Brembo are the holy grail of the braking universe – a brand that is the most recognisable, and highly respected. Pioneers of quality braking engineering, they have forged a hugely loyal base of admirers from every pocket of the planet. So if you’re investing in a piece of superior engineering, suitable for the most sought-after vehicles on earth, you don’t want to feel like you’re missing out. You want to get the absolute best out of those brakes, right? One crucial way of ensuring your brakes are prepared for their new environment is to bed them in.

 

hyundai-genesis-coupe-brembo-brakes
st.motortrend.com

 

Bedding in Brembo Brakes: What’s the Point?

When you fit Brembo brake pads, the first few applications of the brakes aren’t going to result in stopping power that will leave you lifting your jaw off the floor. Until they are bedded, brakes simply do not work as well as they should.

 

The purpose of bedding in your brakes is to have the rotor compatible with the pads, creating a stable transfer film that allows optimum friction over long periods. This is achieved through temperature, rubbing speed and line pressure, which allows an even layer of brake pad material to form on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc.

 

The rotor is heat treated, which eliminates any shock in the rotor. This heat also burns off moisture from the resin at the pad’s surface, avoiding the dreaded “green fade”. This phenomenon is where resin evaporates at the high temperatures involved in heavy braking and the pressurised gas that develops pulls the brake lining away from the disk, reducing friction. A loss of friction is no good thing.

 

Of course, the benefits of doing this has great overall results. Well-performed bedding greatly improves pedal feel, reduces brake judder and brake dust, and – importantly – lengthens pad and rotor life. Why pay for Brembo and miss out on all the good stuff?

 

brembo brakes
carid.com

 

Bedding in Brembo Brakes: How To

Bedding in is a complicated process that must be performed correctly. Doing it right does have incredible results though, so it’s pretty vital to follow the procedure closely.

 

  1. Reach 80km/h and feather your brakes a couple of times to raise their temperature – we don’t want to shock the rotors and pads.
  2. From 80km/h, make 8-10 hard near-stops in a row. It’s important to note that you never fully stop. You’re just firmly and quickly reducing your speed without grinding to a halt. At the end of each brake, quickly resume your 80km/h pace.
  3. After the last near-stop, come back up to speed and cruise for 15 minutes, using the brakes as rarely as possible to let them cool.

 

Seeing the Results

After, if performed correctly, there will be a blue tint and a grey film on each rotor face. The blue means the rotor has got to the break-in temperature, the grey is evidence the pad material has transferred to the surface of the rotor face. If you have that, you’re on to a winner! It’s now time live your life as the owner of fully-bedded Brembos.

Nobody said off-road life would be easy. If you find yourself in a bit of a jam in the bush, there isn’t much your horsepower alone can do about it, so it’s absolutely vital that you know what you’re doing and that you have the right gear. When the Australian elements test you to your fullest, knowing what your winch is the difference between calamity and a pretty exciting experience that confirms your place as a truly self-sufficient off-roader.

 

Simple Precautions: Gear You’ll Need

There are a few things you’ll need to have with you besides a winch before you leave the house. Every off-roader worth their salt will have recovery points on their vehicle at both ends, so make sure yours does. You don’t want your only viable anchor point to be directly behind your only recovery point, or you’ll be going nowhere fast! A tree trunk protector is essential too. Not only does this protect the tree when being used as your anchor, but it protects your brand new equipment. You’ll need a snatch block and hook too, which I’ll explain later. Also, heavy duty gloves will keep your hands safe from any barbs in the winch wire – the last thing you need is a couple of lacerations on your hands when driving your unstuck 4×4 home.

 

Buying a Winch

It’s all well and good knowing what to do, but without good gear, you’re not going anywhere. Before looking at some proven winch techniques, it’s a good idea to know what’s out there, and you’d be smart to purchase a high quality, tested winch to get you out the other side. With a winch, it will need to be able to pull 1.5 times the weight of the object you plan to pull – that is your minimum. So if you plan on pulling 5000 lbs you’ll need a winch with the capacity to pull at least 7500 lbs through its line. Since there are a vast number of variables involved in using a winch off-road, this is not an exact formula, however going above 1.5 times your maximum weight is pretty certain to give safe results. We at Spares Box offer the best, toughest winches on the market from the guys at Mean Mother, catering to all vehicles you’ll find off-road.

 

890001-EB9500-1

 

What You Need To Know

It’s really important to bear in mind a few things that can go wrong if you aren’t ultra-cautious. For example, as your winch works harder to pull you out a hole, it produces heat. To prevent overheating of the motor, take a break every 20 seconds or so, especially if you’re pulling over lengthy distances. While you’re at it, keep your engine running to avoid draining your system completely, as use of a winch takes a lot out of your electrical system.

 

It’s also crucial that you use a strong, steady anchor point. If you’re using a tree trunk, make sure it’s a live, strong tree. Use the base of the tree, or as low as the width of the trunk will allow, when tensioning your rope. Doing this allows greater support for your winch rope, and therefore greater overall pull. If you’re not using a tree as an anchor point, but, say, another vehicle – easily the most common method – and find you’re pulling the anchor vehicle in your direction, it’s a wise idea to secure your mate’s vehicle to a nearby tree (or a third vehicle if there’s one going handy). This provides failsafe anchor strength and security, and often the difference between getting home before midnight and, well, not.

 

How it’s Done – Single Line Pull

A single line pull is the go-to technique when it comes to using your winch. It’s the simplest way of doing things, and a tried and tested solution. All you have to do is pull the rope from the winch and connect to a hook at a given anchor point. Your anchor point can be pretty much anything with the strength to cope, from the recovery point of your mate’s (safely situated) vehicle to a sturdy tree trunk. Again, just make sure your anchor point is rock solid. Where possible, use an anchor point directly in line with your vehicle. Pulling straight is easier than pulling at an angle. If working at an angle, use a snatch block to guide the cable directly into the winch, this stops it stacking up on one side of the drum.

 

How it’s Done – Double Line Pull

You might find yourself reaching your winch’s maximum load, often due to the pull of the mud you’re stuck in, and thinking you might have to set up camp in the bush. The solution here is a slightly more time consuming one, but it can be necessary – a double winch pull. Say you’re using a tree as your anchor. First, fit your tree trunk protector, attach your snatch block to the protector with the help of a hook, then put your winch rope through the snatch block and “double back” to your vehicles recovery point. Your rope should now have two points of contact with the stuck vehicle. One extending from the winch, and the other fastened to the recovery point. This allows you twice the pulling power, so it can be a lifesaver when you’re nearing your maximum.

 

Now you’re ready to face the elements with no worries. Just remember what precautions need to be made, from items you’ll need to have handy to having a strong anchor point, taking regular breaks during pulls, and keeping your engine running. Happy off-roading, folks.

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